The cultural centre of Bali, Ubud and its environs are rapidly becoming a culinary centre as well. With its elevated altitude, dining alfresco in the cool of the evening is the norm.

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Similar food quality, but in a majestic setting on the ridge of a river valley, is found at CasCades at The Viceroy. The chef is a young Belgian, Jean-Francois Brouck, and his seven-course degustation menu includes such exotic courses as Pan Fried Foie Gras with an Asian-flavoured Duck Confit Ravioli or an Alaskan King Crab Salad with shiitake mushroom cannelloni, a wasabi mayonnaise and Ikura.

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So the secret's out. Bali is more than just sand and sea. Come before the queues get too long at the eateries.