It's official, I have fallen in love; I am having an affair with none other than CasCades at The Viceroy Bali. Could it be the tranquil ambience of sophistication that first attracted me? Bien sur. It is also all those other things that perfectly balance the most impressive menu that I have clapped eyes on since the days we travelled back to England from the south of Spain by car, Michelin-ing it all the way. But first I will tell you about how it started …as usual at the bar. Here at The Viceroy Bar , stunning glass creations by Seiki Torige and full range of Absolut's funky flavour team up behind the cultured barman and emanate a magnificent glacier green hue with retronic overtones . The unique glassware highball, low-ball champagne flutes and more – positively sparkle with sophistication. Gaze over the low, bow shaped balcony to Petanu's lush river ravine and ….pinch your self; yes, you are still in Bali . So after an uber-glam cocktail, we dine.
CasCades' three dining settings are elegant fine dining, Tatami style or upper class bistro ( by that I mean the immaculate linens that grace the central table are replaced by an exquisite, shell-inlay lacquer table top ). Hitherto unseen in Bali , the exclusive cutlery and fine china proudly show off innovative curves that will initiate us to the art of sensual dining. Every detail is inspired. And the main man behind the inspiration is the delightfully discriminating David Sosson . Chef Sosson was awarded the “Best Personality Chef' medal at the Hospitality Asia 2003-2004, held in the Shangri-La, Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia , where he completed against no less than 150 four and five star hotel chefs.
Having been involved with the creation of CasCades since its inception, hef Sosson and his invaluable team, along with The Viceroy's management, have elevated fine dining on Bali to a whole new level. The classical French menu with an accent on herbs is intrinsically sexy. Flavours infuse each other with their essence; it is a menu where the sum of all these fresh, mostly organic ingredients blend to create memorable instances of oral delights. Chef Sosson 's flavours are known yet the combinations unique. Le Caprice de Margaret is a duck foie gras mi-cuit, served with crab, fennel delight and a fondue of pimiento de piquillo, artfully presented as with all their dishes. The Petit Tarte Hallucinogene introduces a wild mushroom and goat's cheese tart to Parma ham and a salad with Port wine reduction. The innovative Le Broc au Lit – a broccoli cappuccino served with a paprika stick – is a spicy combination of textures and freshness.
The cleverly named Pas Veneneauux mais Risque d'Addiction – truffle and Morel veloute with poached egg and “fleur de sel” is definitely worth the addiction!.
The menu is for serious gourmands of French culinary splendour and although knowledge of French is not imperative, it is fun to appreciate the sense of humour and sensuality that christens each gastronomic creation.
From the countryside comes La Vielle Recette de Lucette Pinault that delicately congregates beef fillet Rossini , big potato chips cooked in goose fat with apricot compote and natural juice. Outstanding is Le Veau sous la Mere – a roasted veal rack with potato vendanguere and Morel sauce, then there is the Caresse de Thon, La Belle Scallop and the Petite Queue Fretillante – baby lobster ‘a la plancha' flambéed with grand Marnier, mussel farcie on fennel, bacon cabbage, sun dried tomato and a Xeres marinade. A veritable gathering of incomparable flavours that, when combined, stir desire out of the mind and onto the plate. After an intercourse interlude, listening to gentle misic and finishing off one of the excellent wines from a wine cellar that has lovingly been chosen and laid down by the knowledgeable manager and Maitre'D Sylvain Carrier, the evocative repast continues with Orgasme de Chocolat – Araguani dark chocolate fondant with milk chocolate sorbet, liquorice and cocoa Viennois and a Hymn de Aphrodite, a walnut and pecan tart, frozen cider, honey stick banana and coconut. Equilibrium is something we all look for and at CasCades this comes in the guise of their monthly Friday themed night, in which an ingredient is chosen that runs through the entire set menu. Their first such evening was a Cheese Night followed by November's Scallop degustation. December sees Foie Gras and Prawns coalescing to create a smart and unique surf and turf menu for Rp. 370,000++ and bringing your own wine is allowed, subject to a small corkage fee. Yet the evening that I am primping myself for is the one where, thanks to Sylvain's immaculate sense of networking, Chateau Paveil de Luze, an excellent house of Burgundy , will unite with Chef Sosson 's ingenious flair. Five fine wines, from four Vintages, will accompany a light and illustrious five course menu whose main ingredients in order of appearance are prawn and mussels; forest mushroom with air dried duck breast and duck confit; black bass filet bordelaise; medallion of lamb with truffle sauce followed by baked apple with camembert and bacon.
And why do I tell you all this? Maybe because it has come to my attention that, after all, I am not the jealous lover.
Reservations are highly recommended.