Bali Eats, November 2005.

Dining on the Edge!

Sometimes the words dry up. No matter what you say you are not going to do it justice. 'To be seen is to be believed' is an old adage. No truer statement could be uttered than about CasCades. This elegant restaurant is sprawled along the top ridge of a valley, down below are the super luxurious villas of The Viceroy, a rapid waterway is at the base of the valley; the opposite bank covered with lush vegetation and just the occasional monkey.

We get so used to majestic settings in Bali that we become almost blasé. Arrive just before dusk for that aperitif and the panorama, in all its simplicity, will leave you speechless. Nothing that happens later is likely to spoil the experience.

A wonderful setting is one thing but to also present sensational cuisine is another. In French chef David Sosson, CasCades have backed a winner. Seriously talented with impeccable credentials that include a stint with Michel Roux, and Exec Chef for Malaysia's top boutique hotel [Carcosa Seri Negara] at their fine dining Mahsurie Restaurant in Kuala Lumpur.

Le Caprice de Margaret is Duck Foie Gras miu-cuit, crab and fennel and a fondue of Pimiento del Piquillo. Typical of most of the dishes here it consists of small pockets of taste explosions. A combination of scallops and mussels has a vanilla and orange dressing. And for those who demand the best, there is La Perle Noire de Russie; Beluga caviar, grey roe from a giant sturgeon of the Caspian Sea, blinis and all.

Le Broc au Lit is a broccoli cappuccino with garlic bread. Coco N-5 is a coco bean soup with a fresh water prawn. From the top drawer, Pas veneneux mais Risque d'Addiction is a truffle and morel veloute with poached egg and 'fleur de sel' [the flower-shaped pristine first layer of salt].

Du Lard ou du Cochon is a 'dream come true' for pork-aholics. Consisting of small balls of Caramelized Pork Belly, so crunchy and tasty, with accompanying pork loin strips on a mash of ginger and carrot. Volaille Volage is roasted duck breast across a unique barley risotto with braised turnips, topped with a licorice sauce. Le Veau sous la Mere is veal tournedos with vegetable gratin and cream of spinach.

The red meat brigade are looked after with a Beef Tenderloin, marrow and red wine sauce, and that Australian version of Japan's Kobe beef, Wagyu-kobe, pan-fried in olive oil and anchovies.

From the ocean Steamed Red Snapper with seaweed butter, neck clam ragout and shellfish emulsion. Poissons des Dieux is Bali Mong with confit of chicory and shallots in port wine. A Moule a la Moule is green mussels in civet with Le Puy green lentils, poached quail egg and 'sot-l'y laisse' [that delicate little ball of chicken flesh from the hip]. A Roasted Lobster is served in black truffle butter Escabeche for two persons.

For me, Gourgandine en Habit Blanc is the perfect way to finish a meal such as this. It is a trio of Apple Calvados, Caramel and Fromage Blanc ice creams with ginger bread. So clean and fresh on the palate! Although for chocolate lovers there is another option. The Orgasme de Chocolat is superb. Araguani dark chocolate fondant is with a milk chocolate sorbet and a licorice and cocoa viennois.

The wine list is one of Bali's most extensive and includes many of the world's great wines, and even quite a few good value ones. The service is that hard to find combination of always being there when wanted and never when not. Sheer class!

As CasCades must cater for in-house guests, the basic luncheon menu is a light one although still featuring many unusual items including a Port Wine and Melon Salad with Seared Duck Breast. However the full evening a la carte menu is also available for lunch, by prior arrangement [reservation essential].

During October Chef David introduced a Friday Gourmet Dinner. Six courses that all featured one product, Cheese. It was an unqualified success, so a precedent has been set. During November the Chef's Friday degustation will feature that wonderful mollusc, the scallop. Incredible creations that include a Carpaccio with xeres dressing, with beetroot and laurel, with Beluga caviar, a coconut and roasted citrus stew, and with a leek and cider fricassee. Add sweets and coffee and all for Rp.295,000 ++.

CasCades is all about fine dining, French style. If you like your T-Bone steak hanging over the edge of your plate, then this is not the place for you. However if you appreciate haute cuisine, then a visit to CasCades is something that you will remember forever.

Some people even arrive here by helicopter, at The Viceroy Bali's owning landing pad.

Also available every evening is the chef's special 6 course degustation dinner, at Rp.385,000++ quite sensational value!